More than one million people are expected to visit the month-long night markets in south-west Sydney, where ‘everyone is happy’

The steps at Lakemba mosque on Thursday night hum with a contented quietness, and the smell of sweet bread baking.

Two men sitting get up to greet me. Outside, three 14-year-old boys stopped to chat. They’ve just finished tutoring and are heading to the mosque for tarawih – evening prayer – before the Lakemba Nights markets, one says.

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